Cycling in Provence 2003
TRIP PREVIEW - 5 days/6 nights > Departs Sunday and Returns on Saturday
This tour takes us through the Lubéron, the Alpilles region south of St Rémy, and to the Pont du Gard and Uzès. It is a joy to cycle through scenery straight out of impressionist paintings, olive groves, lavender fields, cypress trees, rocky outcrops, medieval villages 'perched' on cliff-tops and great open valleys dotted with cherry trees and vineyards - the same images and landscapes that inspired Vincent Van Gogh.
Terrain:
Mostly quiet back-roads and some hard trails. Some long ascents, some steep.
Climate:
Spring and autumn are bright and clear (20°C); the 'mistral' wind keeps it cool. Provence enjoys over 300 days of sunshine a year, but brief showers are possible. Azure skies and a light that inspired Cézanne and Van Gogh.
Daily Distance: 18 - 33 miles
Trip start and end: Avignon train station
DAY 1 London - Avignon - Gordes, Provence
After being welcomed at the meeting point in Avignon the transfer east to Gordes takes 45 minutes. After settling in there is a familiarisation session with the bikes and for those that are keen to bike a warm-up ride to the Village des Bories (5 miles). The village is a very unusual collection of unique dry stone buildings of indeterminate origin harking back to the days of the Provençal pastoral migrations. Tonight we dine at the hotel.
Hôtel La Gacholle or Hôtel Gordos, D
DAY
2 Gordes - a circular ride 32 miles
Today we ride to the 12th Century Cistercian Abbaye de Sénanque, a must. Afterwards a long uphill takes us up onto the pine covered mountain and then to Murs for a well-earned lunch in a local restaurant. As a further reward after lunch there is a long downhill on a scenic route through the hills to Roussillon, famous for it's beautiful shades of Ochre - from blood red to yellow - and the Giant's Causeway. After looking around the village we ride over the Pont Julien to Lacoste and on to Ménerbes - Peter Mayle lived here for a while! A Pretty village, it's well worth a wander around. Then ride north again to Gordes. Tonight we eat out at one of the excellent restaurants in Gordes. (Le Temps des Saveurs, L'Estellan or Comptoir de Victuaillier).
Hôtel La Gacholle or Hôtel Gordos, B, L, D
DAY 3 Gordes - St Rémy 37 miles
Transfer ride from Gordes to St.Rémy. A big downhill to wake us up, a few little ups and then pretty flat for the rest of the journey. On the way through Gordes we stop to see the weekly market, then ride on to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue with its many canals. Waterwheels stand as reminders of the vibrant silk industry that once flourished here. After crossing Cavaillon, which is quite busy, we head southwest across the wide River Durance towards Orgon and Eygaliéres. The scenery changes subtly and becomes wilder as we approach the jagged range of mountains known as 'Les Alpilles' - the Little Alps. A splendid picnic lunch awaits us in the shelter of the Chappelle St.Sixte and leads to the inevitable 'siesta'. Suitably restored we head off again, via the sleepy village of Eygaliéres, cutting across country on a dirt road to the mountain side caves of the Château Romanin for a little wine-tasting. Then, as the sun spreads a golden glow over the landscape we cycle the last few miles into St. Rémy on quiet back-roads. If you still have the energy, the Roman monuments a mile to the north of St. Rémy are well worth a tour.
Château de Roussan, B, L, D
DAY 4 St Rémy 18 miles
In St. Rémy today is market day, one of the prettiest markets in Provence.
Spend about an hour wandering around and perhaps buy the food
you wish to eat later in the day at your picnic spot. Then
head south to Les Baux-de-Provence taking the Val d'Enfer
route with fantastic views - it is quite steep but worth it!
Visit to
the Ghost village before heading into the striking medieval
village of Les Baux, perched high above the surrounding countryside
of vines and olive trees. Half of Les Baux is is composed
of tiny climbing streets and ancient stone houses mostly inhabited
by local craftsmen. The other half, the Ville Morte, is a
mass of medieval ruins. In the afternoon return to St.Rémy
via Molleges. In the evening we visit St Paul Hospital, where
Van Gogh spent a year painting, or do a walk to some of the
sites painted by Van Gogh.
Longer Ride Option: +18kms
After visiting Les Baux ride through Maussane and Le Destet, absolutely the most scenic route in Les Alpilles, to Eygalieres, and then back to St. Rémy. Free evening in St Rémy.
Château de Roussan, B, L
DAY 5 St Rémy - Collias 22 miles
Today we transfer from St.Rémy to Collias, first passing St Etienne-du-Gras on the quiet 'Vieux chemin d'Arles', then on towards Tarascon. There we visit the formidable XIIth century château whose stone walls tower 150ft above the Rhône, one of the finest and most daunting medieval castles in France. We Lunch in Tarascon in one of the many waterside restaurants, before riding over the dam of Vallabregues and on through Comps to Rémoulins. The magnificent Pont du Gard is always a treat and we salute the Roman engineer's and stonemason's skills as we cycle over the Pont du Gard and then follow the river round to Collias. In the evening those that wish to can walk to the Ermitage de Collias, a most beautiful place.
Hôtel Hostellerie la Castellas, B, L, D
DAY 6 Collias 23 miles
A gentle day cycling through rolling hills. Ride north through St.Maximin to St Quentin-la-Potérie and see a demonstration of pottery making. Ride on to Uzès for lunch and take time to visit the old town which was used in the film Cyrano de Bergerac. Coté Jardin or La Taverne make excellent options for lunch. We ride home ride through Blauzac and Sanilhac to Collias. On arrival or after a break, take time to visit the Grotte de la Baume with an 11th Century chapel (about 1 Hours walk). Kayaks can also be hired on the River below the Pont du Gard. A grand last night supper to finish.
Hôtel Hostellerie la Castellas, B, L, D
Day 7
Transfer to Avignon for journey home.
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